After an outage, check the pump's breaker first, then the pressure switch. Switches with a low-pressure cutoff lever can stay off until the lever is held up while pressure builds. If neither restores water, a surge may have damaged the control box, switch or motor, and the system should be tested rather than reset repeatedly.
Key points
- Breaker first, then the pressure switch.
- A low-pressure cutoff lever may need holding up while pressure builds.
- Surges damage capacitors, relays and switches more often than motors.
- A small generator may not be able to start a well pump.
Wellborne gets a lot of calls after storms in Suffolk and Hampton Roads. Many end with a simple reset; some end with a damaged control part; a few with a damaged motor. Knowing which one you have starts with three checks.
1. The breaker
Outages and the surges when power returns can trip the pump breaker. Look at the panel for a breaker in the tripped position, usually a double-pole breaker labeled for the well or pump. Switch it fully off, then back on.
If it trips again immediately, leave it off. That is a fault, not an outage side effect, and repeated resets can damage the motor.
2. The pressure switch
Many well pressure switches include a low-pressure cutoff. If pressure falls well below the cut-in setting, which is exactly what happens when the house keeps using water during an outage, the switch locks out to protect the pump from running dry. It has a small lever on the side.
With the breaker on, hold the lever up (toward “start” or “auto”, depending on the model) until the pressure gauge climbs past the cut-in pressure, typically 30 or 40 psi, then release it. If the pump runs and the pressure builds and holds, the system is back.
The switch carries line voltage, so use only the external lever and keep the cover on.
3. Surge damage
If the breaker holds and the switch is reset but there is still no water, a surge may have damaged something. In order of likelihood:
- The control box on three-wire submersibles. The start capacitor and relay are sensitive to surges. A pump that hums but does not start often has a failed capacitor.
- The pressure switch itself, with contacts welded or burned by the surge.
- The motor, if the surge travelled down the well cable. Less common, but possible after a nearby lightning strike.
These need testing with meters, and the first two are repaired at ground level.
If the water comes back but looks different
After a long outage, water can come back cloudy or with air spitting from the taps as the system refills. That usually clears after a few minutes of running a cold tap. If it stays cloudy, smells different or the outage came with flooding, treat the water with caution and test it for bacteria before drinking.
Running a well pump on a generator
Well pumps draw several times their running current to start. A generator too small for that starting load stalls the motor, drops the voltage and can overheat both. If the pump starts on the grid but not on the generator, size is the likely reason. If it runs on the generator but sounds strained, voltage may be low. A pump on a generator during outages needs a generator matched to its starting load and a proper transfer switch, not an extension cord into an outlet.
Hurricanes and flooding
A hurricane can bring flooding as well as outages. If water has reached the wellhead, the well house or the control box, leave the power off and treat the water as unsafe until the well has been disinfected and tested. The flooded well guide covers what to do.
Protecting the system next time
A lightning arrester at the control box or the panel diverts surges to ground before they reach the pump. Switching off the pump breaker during a severe storm and switching it back on afterward reduces exposure further. Keeping a few gallons of water stored for outages means the house can ride out an outage without draining the system down to the low-pressure cutoff.
If the simple checks do not bring the water back, call (757) 919-1972 and tell us what the breaker and gauge show.