# Well pump running constantly? Why it won't shut off > A well pump that never reaches cut-out: leaks, running fixtures, check valves draining back, a worn pump, a falling water level or the switch. Tell them apart. URL: https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/guide/well-pump-running-constantly/ Learn If the pump never reaches cut-out pressure, water is going somewhere, or the pump can no longer deliver it. A well pump that runs without stopping either cannot reach the pressure switch's cut-out pressure or the switch is not opening. The usual causes are a leak or open fixture, a check valve letting water drain back down the well, a worn pump, a falling water level, or switch contacts stuck closed. A pump running dry overheats quickly, so this needs checking the same day. Key points - Watch the gauge: stuck below cut-out, or climbing past it? - Turn off every fixture to test for leaks in the house. - A pump running dry can be ruined within hours. - Switch off the breaker if no water reaches the house. [Wellborne](https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/) diagnoses pumps that will not stop across Suffolk and the surrounding area. It is one of the problems worth acting on quickly: a submersible motor relies on water flowing past it to stay cool, and running without water can burn it out. ## First, read the gauge Turn off every tap, appliance and irrigation zone and watch the pressure gauge at the tank. - **Stuck below cut-out and not climbing.** The pump cannot build pressure: water is escaping or the pump cannot deliver it. - **Climbing slowly toward cut-out.** The pump is weak or the well cannot keep up with it. - **Past cut-out and still climbing.** The [pressure switch](https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/pressure-switch-and-control-box-repair/) is not opening. Switch off the pump at the breaker: the system relies on the relief valve at that point. ## Water going somewhere The simplest cause is a fixture or leak using water as fast as the pump can supply it: a toilet with a leaking flapper, an outdoor hose, an irrigation zone stuck open, a leaking water heater relief valve, or a break in the buried line between the well and the house. A wet patch in the yard along the line’s route, or a sound of running water in the house with everything off, gives it away. A **check valve** that no longer seals lets the water column drain back down the well whenever the pump stops, so the pump restarts constantly or never catches up. A **split drop pipe** or failed coupling inside the well sends part of the pump’s output straight back down. Both happen out of sight; the gauge falling with everything off is the clue. ## The pump cannot keep up A pump with impellers worn by [sand](https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/guide/sand-and-sediment-in-well-water/) delivers less water than it once did. Over time it falls behind the switch’s cut-out, running longer and longer until it never stops. Its amp draw and the time it takes to rebuild pressure show the decline. The **[water level](https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/guide/well-pump-sizing/)** can also fall to the pump. In a dry summer or after a long irrigation run, a well with limited yield, or a pump set close to the [pumping level](https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/guide/well-pump-sizing/), draws the water down until the pump is gulping air and water. Output drops, pressure stalls, and the pump keeps running. This is when a submersible is most at risk of overheating. ## The switch is stuck Pressure switch contacts can weld closed after years of arcing or a surge, so the switch never opens even at full pressure. A clogged sensing port can make the switch read low and keep calling the pump. If the gauge shows pressure at or above cut-out and the pump is still running, the switch is the suspect. That is also why a pressure relief valve on the system matters. ## How it is diagnosed The checks run in order: fixtures and visible leaks, the gauge behavior with everything off, the switch, the pump’s amp draw and output, and the water level. A pressure-hold test with the pump off separates a check valve or line leak from a pump problem. If the pump has to come out, the check valves, drop pipe and the water level are all examined while it is up. ## Seasonal pattern In Suffolk and Hampton Roads, constant running shows up most in late summer, when irrigation is heaviest and water tables are lowest. A pump that copes in spring may struggle by August. That seasonal pattern points toward the water level or a [worn pump](https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/well-pump-replacement/) rather than a leak, which tends to show year-round. ## What not to do Do not let the pump run for hours hoping it will catch up. Do not turn the switch’s settings up to stop it running; that makes a weak pump run even longer. If water is not reaching the house, switch the pump off at the breaker and call [(757) 919-1972](tel:+17579191972). Related service [No water from the well](https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/no-water-from-well/) More guides - [Why a well pump short cycles](https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/guide/well-pump-short-cycling/) - [Air in the water lines](https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/guide/air-in-water-lines/) - [A well pump that trips the breaker](https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/guide/well-pump-tripping-breaker/) - [Repair or replace a well pump](https://wellbornesuffolkwellpumprepair.com/guide/repair-or-replace-well-pump/) ## Questions people ask ### Is it normal to hear my pump run for a long time? During long demand, such as a shower plus laundry or irrigation, the pump may run for many minutes. It should stop within a short time once everything is turned off and the pressure reaches cut-out. ### Can a pressure tank make the pump run constantly? A failed tank usually causes the opposite, rapid on-off cycling. Constant running points to a leak, the check valve, the pump, the water level or the switch. ### How do I know if my check valve is leaking? With the pump off and all fixtures closed, watch the gauge. If pressure falls steadily with no water being used and no visible leak, water may be draining back down the well through the check valve or a split drop pipe.